On Oct. 30 around 6 p.m., John Sefakis started his weekly transformation into Stella D’Oro, his drag persona. Facing three lighted mirrors and in front of a bouquet of bright, plastic flowers, the 72-year-old Greek-American laid down his thin, dark eyebrows with a glue stick, making sure all the hairs laid flat. He turned on the air conditioner to dry them faster and applied more glue. That night, he would be performing at Barracuda, a gay bar in Chelsea.

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